Secrets to Phalaenopsis A summer growing season is essential to healthy and plentiful blooms. A good way to start that is to cut the spikes off after the blooms are finished. However if the Phal is a “sequential bloomer”, don't cut the spike since it will be blooming again and maybe again. The flower spike (inflorescence) is clipped using a sterile blade above the first node where the spike emerged from the plant.(Nodes are leaflets that grow around the spike) That node is a natural barrier to stop infection where it is cut. Temperatures above 80 degrees inhibit flower spikes. So commercial growers maintain Phals at a target of 83 degrees. The summer is spent growing big thick medium green leaves and a healthy root system. With all of this stored up energy, they are just waiting for that monsoon.
by Lee Bredeson*
Orchids R Easy!
Some say Phalaenopsis are hard to grow. Well, they should not be treated like other house plants. However once the difference is understood they require less care than house plants.
Phalaenopsis orchids originate from the area of the Philippines. They are prompted to bloom by the natural cycles of the seasonal monsoons. We can simulate the effects of these monsoons. It is easiest do this in the spring and fall when the night time low temperatures are about 55 degrees and daytime temp is about 70 (A daytime temp above 80 inhibits flowers.). What we actually need is a 15 to 20 degree drop from day to night. So if the Phal blooms twice a year lasting 2 to 4 months... well, thats beautiful! A famous hybridizer of Phals shared the 'secret' which many in the orchid world already know.
To simulate the effect of the monsoon rains we use a drench (1 teaspoon of Epsom salt per gallon water). Pour enough to fill the pot so that it runs out the bottom for a couple of seconds. Do this once and then again one week later without watering or fertilizing. The solution will leach almost all nutrients from the roots and growing media (bark/sphagnum mix). The heavy rains in the Philippines have the same effect. After the rains subside, cool winds blow for about a month. So one week later, we place them where the temperatures can fluctuate by 15 to 20 degrees. Be careful not to let the Phals be exposed to even cooler temperatures. Water sparingly without fertilizer. After 21 consecutive days of these cool nights, almost every Phal should have sent up flower 'spikes' (inflorescences). This method is referred to as 'cool induction'. Once you see a spike, the orchid can be brought inside and resume watering and fertilizer while the spike matures into blooms. Some people do not fertilize Phals with blooms but experiment for yourself. I have found that "weak fertilizer weekly" gives better results, more and larger blooms.
Additional info:
To ensure healthy size and many flowers, fertilize your orchids regularly during the summer. If it is a balanced general fertilizer with 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 composition, use 1/4 of the recommended rate (so if 1 teaspoon is called for per gallon water, cut it to 1/4 tsp). The old adage fertilize 'weakly... weekly' works very well. If the fertilizer was made specifically for orchids, follow the label directions. The MSU formula, developed by Michigan State University to meet the specific needs of orchids, is available online.
Did you know that Phals 'expire' most often due to over watering? If left constantly wet, both the bark mix and the roots will surely rot. By the time the leaves show signs, it may be too late to save the roots or the orchid. Phals thrive on a full cycle of soaking wet to almost dry. I suggest that you use what I refer to as a "water-o-meter". This is simply a wooden BBQ skewer or old pencil that is pushed deep in the potting material. Leave it there. When you think the orchid needs water, pull it out. I place it on my cheek. "Cool and wet, don’t water yet". Wait until it is slightly damp and beginning to dry out. However a Phal has no water storage pseudobulb like other orchids. If the stick becomes 'bone dry', the orchid has already started to pull upon the water in its leaves. After 3 days of being completely dry, the affect may be severe. In a 'typical' home it takes an orchid about 2 weeks, maybe 3, to reach that point.
Small or young orchids are often sold planted in sphagnum moss. They can be grown in it indefinitely if the Phal is repotted in fresh sphagnum. However when the Phal has 3 pairs of leaves or is ready for a 6 inch pot, consider switching to a regular bark mix, semi hydro ceramic pellets or other media. Transfer to semi hydro should be done when there are new roots. The organic sphagnum and the bark mix decompose after about 6 months to a year. With it goes the roots! Therefore the condition inside the pot should be monitored or simply repotted once, possibly twice a year. The bark becomes spongy to the touch or easily breaks up. If so, repot.
Orchids R Easy!
*Available to speak to Garden Clubs and Orchid Societies.